I stood in the
circular drive of the hotel. The
towering banyan trees, planted as an ornamental barrier, blocking the pit dug as
a foundation for a building which was never built, were dying from lack of
water. Their dung colored leaves rustled
in the breeze. It was already dark. As always in the tropics, day turned to night
with seemingly no transition. Dusk was
merely a spot of pink on a horizon which quickly bled dry to black. As I stared at the disappearing stain that
sun had left on the horizon, a government car pulled up. A driver emerged, opened the door, closed it
behind me, and we sped off into the dark city.
Charles’ house
was, not surprisingly, in an area of the city once reserved for the colonial
officials who occupied this nation. The
streets were arranged in an orderly grid.
A line of stately elms flanked the well paved streets. Hemmed in on all sides by poverty and decay,
the district was eerily quiet in the dark, with few houses lit from private
generators
The driver let
me out in front of a large stucco home tiled with red stones. The garden was blooming with flowers:
vermillion, crimson, deep, aquatic greens.
The path smelled of water and herbs.
Several lamps glowed along the path, illuminating the way, which
terminated at a large door carved with the figures of European Knights in
chivalrous, marital poses – some colonial official’s nostalgic concession to a
lost world still worthy of emulation.
I had expected a
servant to answer the door, but it was Charles standing in the threshold. He still wore the charcoal gray suit which
had become his trademark in news conferences, but he had removed his tie, and I
noticed for the first time that he had a meaty neck.
It was the beginning of a future
transformation; he was a slim man, but as he made he way up the rungs of
state, he would need to grow in size and stature, to become, on a grander
scale, one of the immense tribal leaders, with their spreading girth covered by
flowing, colorful robes. Charles
stiffly pumped my hand and led me through some plush, air conditioned
rooms. The furniture was thoroughly
European, but the art and décor were strictly African. I recognized masks, spears, and ceremonial
totems from the half a dozen large, native groups of this nation. On a side table was a collection of amulets
written in Arabic script. I recognized
them. As I bent to look at them closely,
I felt Charles’ hand on the small of my back.
He was leaning over them too, examining the items afresh.
“These I thought
you would enjoy,” he said with heavy breath, picking up an amulet with his slim
hand. He removed the other hand from my
back, but I could still feel its weighty imprint. To my surprise, he began to read the Arabic,
a quotation from the Qu’ran, and worn by women in this country when in
labor.
He read yet another one, this for
the finding of a lost item. He then
moved toward a book shelf and removed a photo album. He opened it and there were pictures of a
young Charles with a marabout, a Muslim holy man, brown and skinny as a
reed.
The photo was taken in a village
in the north. Above the squat buildings towered
the equatorial mountain range, the highest peaks clad in snow and enveloped in
mist like mythical giants stalking the earth.
Charles continued to turn the pages.
The photographs of Charles with various marabouts changed from black and
white to color, and to my astonishment, I saw Chalres – or I suppose he was Ono
then -- as a young adult, one amongst a line of Muslim men kneeling in
prayer. They were in a sparse Friday
mosque; a reed niche for the Qu’ran was the only wall fixture, some bamboo mats
the only furniture.
In the foreground
was a line of battered shoes and sandals, and at the end would be the young Charles’
polished dress shoes; here he was already the young scholarship boy. Was this an atavistic expression of
faith? Or was this only Charles, the
young official, pressing the floor with his constituents not out of love of God
but from love of power? If this was so,
one such picture would make sense, but they stretched back, all they way to a
boy of no more than eight or nine. Some
thread of authenticity attached him to the Muslims of the north. Although he showed me this Muslim
paraphernalia as proof of some lasting connection, it was unclear what it was. Was
it just another layer of applique , this hybrid Ono-Charles?
He seemed
disinclined to talk about this, and I felt reticent to push in this more
intimate setting, away from the cameras, the podium, the lights and insignia of
government.
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