Ono preferred to
be called by his Christian name, Charles.
The French missionary who had converted his family was an avid scholar
of Charlemagne. And when Ono and his powerful, tribal family were baptized, he
named them each after a revered member of the Frankish royalty. Ono was named after the greatest Frankish
king of all, because he was the most precocious and gifted of his clan; so much
so that in that time after independence, when scholarships were offered to the
bright youth of his nation for universities in England and France, Ono led
them abroad.
When he returned, in his
pressed suit, to a land he had departed from in second hand, relief clothes, he
was still called Ono by the common people.
But to those who spoke English or French, and to those who prayed to Jesus, he was Charles still, but with a novel dimension. He was one of the first to return from an
overseas experiment in crafting leaders for this newly forged nation. So when he came back he ceased being a real
man and became a symbol.
His job in the
government was to orient journalists – no small task for a country tearing
itself apart by civil war. His round
face was always sheepishly beaming, as if he felt somewhat abashed by the
simplicity and ease by which he exercised his share of state power. He had a broad, honest smile, vast, bright,
deceptive. He was a man who held one
world in one hand – the world of Charles who read statements to reporters in
precise Oxfordian English, as punctilious as the seams
of his shinny black suit – and another world in the other --- that of Ono, the
man of the tribe, from the mid-portion of his country, the littoral zone before
the rainy mountains slope down to the grassy plain (now mostly planted over
with sugar cane, banana and pineapple plantations) and meets the verdant, cove
studded coast.
Charles’ land was where
the fauna and flora of the two zones intermingled, and this variation
was mirrored in the human taxonomy.
Where Charles’ tribe lived was the nexus of the Muslim tribes of the
north and the Christian peoples of the coast, an overlap that was not entirely
noticeable.
Trundling about the dirt
tracks in a land rover, rumbling through small villages composed of corrugated tin
shacks, flustered chickens, meandering cows, all under the omnipresent gray sky
of this equatorial nation, pregnant with yet to fall rain, it is difficult to tell
which town is Christian and which is Muslim except for the occasional swarm of
pigs, or a crescent moon stenciled on a hut which is both a mosque and madrassa
and town hall.
For the
outsider, this place is more than an enigma: before the majestic rise of the
tropical mountains, and after the gentle arch which this long, narrow nation
takes to the sea, there is the constant need of redefinition.
This land needs to be forced, again and
again, into steady categories which give experience permanence and
meaning. But most of all you need an
insider. That is why Charles took me aside
one day following a conference. It was
a difficult session. To the North-East,
a war lord had declared an Islamic state.
The government had been forced to brutally suppress the revolt;
the Muslims retreated to the hills, and now the government had to decide if it
should follow them.
Charles was peppered
with questions by the foreign press about the revolt. He did his best to not answer the questions
he was asked, but the ones he wished he had been asked. He stuck to his text as if it wascatechism: there was no civil war in his land; there was no revolt; there were
bandits and brigands and they were being brought to justice.
Everyone was
milling about the hallway outside the news hall, and I was surprised to find
Charles in front of me. I imagined he
was about to more fully answer the question I had asked (and refused to stop
asking) about the Northern provinces.
“I know you, you
know,” he said and smiled slyly, as if his intelligence was, if not superior to
mine, than more highly polished, more honed – something to lord over me, as if
a was a child and he had a shiny new toy in his pocket he only allowed me to
peek at; I answered, of course, I was
with such and such a news agency. On
hearing this, he shook his head emphatically.
“No, not
that. I know the dissertation you wrote
at Boston University on the Ghana Empire.”
“You read that?”
“Yes, I thought
it well done, Mr. Servi. However,” and
he then began to enumerate some of my scholarly shortcomings. I did not doubt his diagnosis, since I could
no longer remember the details as he did.
I simply smiled as Charles continued to speak, wondering who, in fact,
was speaking: Charles, the government functionary, or Ono, the man of the
tribal highlands.
“Well,” I
answered when it was apparent he had concluded.
“If I had to write it again, and I never will, no doubt I would do it
differently. I was so young then.” On hearing his defense, Charles
ratcheted his smile down a notch.
“Isn’t that they
way of things,” he stated as if reciting an elegy. “We can always do better. We always wish to redress the inadequacies of
the past with today’s progress…” he then stumbled, uncharacteristically, on the
next word, perhaps seeing, as I did, that these words were an allegory for his
nation.
I knew the school of African education
from which Charles hailed: the belief in
the unbroken line of African tradition from the great, old kingdoms of Ghana
and Zimbabwe, thought the turbulence of the slave trading empires, the arrival
of Islam, the long dark age of colonial suppression, the post-colonial tumult,
right to today’s nation states.
For
Christians such as Charles, African Islam below the great arid swatch of the Sahara, was ironically attractive. Undeniably from the West, Islam had
“colonized” this region through trade; Muslim merchants from the north
introduced the faith of the Prophet with their wares, and it was adopted and
adapted to local need, often with startling results.
For men like Charles, accustomed to more
aggressive, naked colonialism, native Islam had a noble savage charm. It possessed all the appeals of the West with
none of the obvious drawbacks. It was an
import whose foreign cast was far easier to hide than poorly constructed
concrete high rise buildings, or capital cities carved out of jungles, whose roads,
often, lead only to more jungle, to suburbs never built.
The Muslims in the north, although in active
revolt against the Christian led government to the south, held a strange
fascination for men like Charles. The
Muslims were apart from Africa but of it; and
unlike men like Charles, where the jagged seam of Africa
and the West was all but visible, the Muslim north appeared as natural and
unforced as the gradual rise from the plain to the foothills, and from the
foothills to the mountains.
“But your
interests are my interests, Mr Servi” Charles continued, as if reading my
thoughts. “Even here, even amidst this
turmoil of politics and war, there is time for God.”
“Are you
admitting that your country is at war?” I asked, for here Charles deviated from
the government line: there was no war here, or even a revolt, just a few thugs
rattling their swords in the foothills.
“I am speaking
metaphorically. I mean the war of all
against all…. As Hobbes wrote…”
Just as the hulk of the Leviathan loomed over us,
suddenly there was a great deal of movement.
The leader was about to drive from the capital city to his estate
outside of town, and there was the clamor of army trucks which inevitably
accompanied him as thunder did Zeus. A phalanx of grim men in khaki, their long machine guns pointed into the sky like medieval lances, all awaited Charles, since the leader traveled everywhere with his entourage of officials and secretaries. Charles perfunctorily offered me his hand, and with nothing more than a smile to confirm our mutual interests, was gone
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