William Finnegan’s Barbarian
Days is a memoir of surfing. One
does not have to understand or even like surfing to enjoy the book. Finnegan takes us on a ride, explaining the
mechanics of surfing, and its metaphysics and overall philosophy; even, in many
ways, the spiritual religious aspects of the craft.
This book is long, and Finnegan probably tells one or two
too many episodic blocks of his surfing life.
The New York City area surfing section, for instance, does not belong in
this book. By the time we get to it, we
understand all that Finnegan wants to tell us. At this point, we are chewing on cud.
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